Fashion Jewellery

Written May 2009 for a jewellery trade publication

They’ve been heralded as original, cool must-haves. Young and fashion-savvy customers can’t get enough of them. Its fans include trend-setting American celebrity Paris Hilton and Chelsea WAG Cheryl Cole. Yet despite the costume jewellers’ luxury clients, her price tags are anything but exclusive to the rich and famous.

Punky Allsorts’ designs do not feature diamonds or any precious metals. Instead, the company draws on the popularity of another girls’ best friend- sweets.

Modern in its creativity but retro in its inspiration, the company’s creations started life on the wrists and neck of singer-songwriter Alayna Salter. Her liquorice and dolly mixture-themed pieces became an instant hit with fans. Many enquired where the one-off collections could be purchased. Sensing a great opportunity, she established Punky Allsorts in January 2008.

Whilst keeping costs to a minimum, the finished articles do not compromise originality and beauty. Each of her necklaces, earrings and bracelets is made from clay beads. These are baked, formed and later coloured. They are later strung by hand with elastic thread. The results are colourful, eye-catching and unique jewellery.

Wholesalers are buying the pieces as quickly as they leave the kitchen. Adored by Los Angeles’ A-listers, upmarket boutique Kitson regularly snaps up the latest selections. In turn, Punky Jewellery has become a worldwide success story.

The latest addition is Seven Cities. Each design represents a popular destination such as London or Paris. With retail prices of £12.50 for bracelets to £50 for a necklace, these are eye-catching creations that are inexpensive.

In the current economic climate, it’s this value for money customers seek. Lower disposable incomes mean that the jewellery industry must explore new opportunities. As some purchasers explore alternatives to gold, fashion jewellery is leading the way.

You don’t have to be a music artist with craze-spotting fans to be profitable. Explore any department store and you’ll find an array of glass, wooden and acrylic jewellery at pocket money prices. These aren’t once in a lifetime purchases. Regulars won’t buy one pair of ear-rings. They’ll buy ear-rings and a bracelet. While they’re at it, they’ll probably buy that necklace they have their eye on.

Why? Costume jewellery is adaptable. It’s designed to be worn with a number of clothes and for everyday occasions. Think about it: we wear a wedding ring for life. We wear our watches for years. When it comes to fashion jewellery, the wearer takes their pick from their personal collection to suit the mood and occasion.

Juli Miller of Jules Jules explains. “Costume jewellery suits today’s market for change” We change our wardrobe frequently and like to do the same with our jewellery”. She adds that purchasers “can be up to date” without having to look to more luxury pieces in a recession. “Big statement pieces that are currently popular can be found equally in costume jewellery”, she says.

Juli began designing her contemporary fused glass jewellery in 2005. Her pendants, cufflinks and ear rings are individually hand-cut from layers of art glass. These layers are layered and then fused together to create a truly one-off piece. Highly wearable, Juli’s work appeals to a wide range of customers. Her best-selling gorgeous glass pendants retail at around £25.

Equally desirable examples stem from the highly-popular children’s costume jewellery sector. Launched in 2006, Molly Brown London’s collections retail in major department stores including Harrods, Selfridges and Fortnum and Masons. Furthermore, the brand is stocked in more than 50 other outlets. These include seven Premier Fraser Hart stores.

Molly Brown London’s best-selling product, the Jelly Bean collection, has become something of a cult. Beautifully finished in solid silver dipped in enamel, International Jewellery London 2007 awarded the range ‘new product of the year’.

Eleven ‘flavours’ are available. Admirers of these well-loved classics whose sweet-tooth is on strike can indulge in colours including strawberry and grape. Also available are silver ‘signature’ jelly beans. Single jelly beans start at a trade price of £14.60.

Founder Erica Illingworth pulls no punches as to its success. “Within two weeks of the jelly beans being introduced at Harrods, we became the best-selling children’s jewellery in the store within two weeks”, she proudly says. Three years later and there is no sign of a lack of demand. “Even in the recession”, Erica reflects, “the products remain the best selling children’s accessory constantly”.

Another ideal complement to your range of beads or children’s jewellery is S.R. Kidz by SilverRado. A sterling silver bead collection for children from five to thirteen years, they feature bright colours and appealing designs.

Vivid and intense designs are not only noticeable, Erica Illingworth says, but hugely popular. “You have to offer something special. Our products are colourful and above all, fun”.

At the same time, purchases can be highly personal. “Our jelly Bean signature range is often purchased as a sentimental keepsake”, Erica says. “I had one customer who bought a signature bean for his wife, who had just lost a baby. They used to call the baby ‘bean’ due to its shape. For the couple, this was a special way to remember their child”.

Fat Lip’s Sarah Watmore agrees. After leaving her job in PR and marketing, she travelled extensively with her husband sourcing new ideas for designs. In 2004, Fat Lip was born. This was “at a time when fashion jewellery really took off”, Sarah adds.

Featuring spectacular contemporary jewellery in a range of colours, Fat Lip is continuing to experience strong growth. “Our sales for this year over the last three months are up around twelve per cent from 2008”, Sarah says.

She continues: “We have customers in the twenties to fifties age range, but also some who are in their sixties and seventies”. The reason, she adds, is simple. “Our products have a wide appeal due to our array of styles”.
Those not purchasing in-store can purchase “at any time of the day or night” through Fat Lip’s easy to use transactional website. “A website is essential”, Sarah says. “A large number of firms we see at trade fairs do not have a website. This can really hold you back”, she warns.

Sarah says the benefits of investing in promoting fashion jewellery now can be highly worthwhile. “We take that extra step to help our retail customers”, she says. For example, a comprehensive range of jewellery display stands is available.

Their dedication and service has certainly paid off. Across four trade shows this spring, the company successfully launched around twenty five new products. Far from cutting back on their products, it was their biggest ever launch.

With next day working delivery, low minimum order and excellent customer service, Fat Lip’s ranges are both classic and enduring. Those looking for something more modern are not disappointed, either. Vibrant new styles made with a colourful selection of unusual acrylic beads will be launched this month. And that’s not all . “At the Autumn Fair we’ll be launching a new beaten and coloured aluminium jewellery range called ‘Amarella’”, Sarah says.

As the warmer months approach, Sarah anticipates multicoloured, bold and dynamic jewellery to sell well. “They go with anything and we find these sell all year round”, she says.

Want to pick and choose your own design? Charlotte Borgen Design is one such company that have embraced such an idea. Its concept is simple. Using your favourite charms, you can create your own personal jewellery.

There are more than 1,000 different colours, patterns and designs in glass, enamel, silver and a dazzling array of CZ beads in numerous colours. Designing your own bracelet or necklace will carry you to the limits of your imagination.

Similarly, Talbot’s wide selection of ranges makes it one of the country’s largest fashion accessory suppliers to the trade. Its jewellery and accessory designs include “vital must-have” Pandora-look charm bracelets featuring an interchangeable lamp.

Also included in their ranges are long seed bead necklaces, inter-spaced with decorated beads. Together with glass designs in an array of rich, lustrous colours, these create a good splash of colour to any display.

Italian costume jewellery is held in equally high regard. Zoppini conjures collections with a multitude of magical tones, materials, styles and designs. The fashion conscious brand is boldly recognisable for its unique concept of subtly setting a trend, and at the same time reflects our day to day living, desires and image.

We truly can look a million bucks without a millionaire’s budget. Spirits can’t help but be lifted with Valentina Jewellery’s new, strikingly pretty Mille Fiore pendants. Meaning 1000 flowers, each pendant has its own story to tell. Made entirely by hand from authentic Murano glass, tiny slices of patterned glass cane or “Murrine” are fused onto the base heart or disc bead. The designs are completely random, making each pendant totally intriguing and unique. The more you look, the more you find!

Still not convinced? Consider these words from Sarah Watmore of Fat Lip. “The jewellery industry should take fashion jewellery very seriously”, she urges. “It is highly adaptable. It’s far easier to create a great statement pieces using readily available and affordable materials than with more expensive metals”.

In what are challenging times, it’s refreshing to see fresh, bold, highly creative and aesthetic creations. Success is there to be had. For designers short of inspiration, consider these words of wisdom from Punky Allsort’s Alayna Salter. "If you’re brave and have a great idea, use your initiative and just go for it. I wanted to create a young, fun brand that didn’t follow the rules of the more formal traditional trends and now the success of the jewellery is providing me with great opportunities to further my music career!"